The Plastering Questions Customers Ask Me Every Day

I’m Andrew Cooper, owner of Cooper Plastering, and I work in homes and businesses throughout Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick, Leamington Spa, Kenilworth, Wellesbourne, Alcester, Bidford-on-Avon and the surrounding Warwickshire area.

Every week I speak to customers who are unsure whether a wall can be repaired, how much plastering should cost, how long fresh plaster takes to dry, or whether they need to remove old plaster completely. Those are sensible questions because every property—and particularly every older property—is different.

I have put together honest answers to 40 of the questions I am most often asked as a plasterer. These are general guidelines based on practical experience. A reliable quotation still requires an assessment of the size of the area, the condition of the background and the preparation needed to produce a sound, smooth and lasting finish.

1. Should I repair plaster myself or hire a professional plasterer?

A small screw hole or a shallow dent can usually be filled by a competent DIYer. Use a suitable interior filler, allow it to dry fully and sand it carefully before decorating.

Larger cracks, loose or hollow plaster, damaged corners, blown areas, failed ceilings and water damage are different. The visible defect may only be the symptom; a professional plasterer will first establish why the failure occurred and whether the background is stable. Plastering a complete wall or ceiling also requires timing, control of suction and skilled trowel work. A poor skim can leave waves, hollows, ridges and visible joins that become even more obvious after painting.

If the repair is larger than a small local filling job—or you are unsure whether the existing surface is secure—getting professional advice will usually save time and avoid repeating the work.

2. How much does it cost to plaster a house?

There is no responsible fixed price for plastering an entire house without seeing it. The cost depends on the number and size of rooms, ceiling heights, condition of the existing plaster, access, whether ceilings are included, and whether the job involves skimming, bonding, plasterboarding or removing failed material.

As a rough guide, re-skimming an otherwise sound small room may cost approximately £400–£600, a medium room around £500–£700, and a large room from roughly £700 upwards. Fresh plastering involving stripping and dry lining is considerably more: often from £750 for a small room, £1,000 for a medium room and £1,500 or more for a large room.

A whole-house quotation should clearly state which rooms and surfaces are included, the preparation required and whether materials and waste removal are included.

3. What is the average plastering price per square metre?

In the UK, plastering is normally measured in square metres rather than square feet. Around £30 per square metre can be a useful initial guide for straightforward skimming, but it should not be treated as a universal rate.

Small jobs often cost more per square metre because travelling, protecting the room, setting up, mixing and cleaning still take time. Difficult staircases, high ceilings, curved walls, extensive cracks, damaged backgrounds and areas requiring bonding or plasterboard also increase the price. Large, open and properly prepared areas may be more economical per square metre.

The fairest comparison is therefore the complete quoted price and specified work—not simply the lowest square-metre figure.

4. How much should a plasterer charge per day?

Day rates vary according to location, experience, the nature of the work and whether a labourer or second plasterer is required. A figure of around £200 per day may be quoted for labour in some circumstances, but many professional plastering jobs are priced as a complete project rather than by the day.

A project price gives the customer greater certainty and allows the plasterer to account properly for preparation, materials, difficult details and cleaning. It also avoids rewarding slow working or penalising a tradesperson for being efficient.

When comparing prices, check whether the figure includes materials, floor protection, preparation, corner beads, waste removal and VAT where applicable. A low day rate can become an expensive job if important elements are added later.

5. What does a plasterer charge per hour?

Most established plasterers do not price normal work by the hour. Even a small repair involves travel, loading and unloading tools, protecting the area, mixing, completing the repair and cleaning up. Plaster also has working and setting times that cannot be reduced to a few minutes of trowel work.

For that reason, small repairs commonly have a minimum charge or are priced as a half-day job. An hourly figure may look high when taken out of context, but the customer is paying for the complete visit, specialist tools, materials, insurance and years of experience—not just the minutes spent applying plaster.

Ask for a clear total price for the agreed work wherever possible.

6. How do I find a good plasterer near me?

Look for a genuinely local plasterer with recent examples of similar work, verified reviews and clear contact details. Search for phrases such as “plasterer near me”, “plasterer Stratford-upon-Avon” or “plasterer Warwickshire”, but do not select someone purely because they appear first or offer the cheapest price.

Check whether the plasterer visits before pricing, explains the preparation needed and supplies a written quotation. Reviews should mention reliability, cleanliness, communication and finish—not simply price. It is also worth checking independent trade profiles and photographs of completed walls, ceilings and repairs.

Cooper Plastering provides free quotations throughout Stratford-upon-Avon and the surrounding Warwickshire towns and villages.

7. How can you tell whether a plasterer is good?

A good plasterer should ask questions about the history of the problem rather than immediately recommending a skim. They will check for loose material, movement, damp, contamination and high or low suction before deciding how to prepare the surface.

Professional signs include:

• a written description of the work and price;
• realistic expectations about cracking and drying;
• suitable floor and furniture protection;
• clean beads, corners and edges;
• a flat, consistent finish rather than a heavily polished surface;
• recent reviews and relevant photographs;
• good communication and public liability insurance.

Fresh plaster does not need to look like glass. The real test is whether it is sound, flat, properly finished and ready for correct decoration once dry.

8. What questions should I ask a plasterer before hiring them?

Ask what preparation is included, which materials will be used and whether the existing plaster is sound enough to skim. You should also ask:

• Are materials and floor protection included?
• Will damaged areas be bonded or boarded first?
• How long should the work take?
• How long must the plaster dry before painting?
• Is waste removal included?
• Are there any areas where cracking cannot reasonably be guaranteed against?
• Do you hold public liability insurance?
• Will the quotation change if hidden damage is discovered?

A professional should be comfortable answering these questions and explaining any limitations before work starts.

9. How should I prepare my home before a plasterer arrives?

Remove small furniture, ornaments, pictures, curtains and valuables from the room. If possible, move larger furniture out; otherwise place it centrally so the plasterer can protect it and work safely around the walls. Clear access from the entrance to the work area and arrange parking close enough for tools and materials to be unloaded.

Radiators, sockets, skirting boards and fitted units sometimes affect access, so agree in advance who will remove or protect them. Electrical fittings must only be isolated or altered safely by a competent person.

At Cooper Plastering we take care to protect floors and surrounding areas, minimise disruption and leave the property clean and presentable. Good preparation makes that process quicker and safer.

10. What is the difference between plasterboard and plaster?

Plasterboard—sometimes called drywall—is a factory-made gypsum board fixed to timber or metal studs, screwed to ceilings, or attached to masonry using drywall adhesive. Plaster is the wet material applied to a background to repair, level or finish it.

In many modern UK homes, plasterboard forms the wall or ceiling surface and a thin coat of finishing plaster is skimmed over it. Older properties may have traditional lath-and-plaster walls or solid masonry covered with base coats and finishing plaster.

The two materials are therefore not always alternatives: plasterboard often creates the background and plaster provides the seamless final finish.

11. Can I patch a plaster wall myself?

Yes, if the damaged area is small, shallow and surrounded by firm plaster. Remove loose debris, control dust, use the correct filler or patching material and build deep repairs in suitable layers. Do not simply fill over a moving crack or soft, damp background.

DIY patches often remain visible because the repair is not flush with the surrounding wall or the edges are not feathered properly. Large holes, deep chases, damaged beads and cracks across plasterboard joints normally need scrim tape, bonding plaster, replacement board or a wider skim.

If tapping the area produces a widespread hollow sound, the damaged plaster may extend further than it appears.

12. What causes cracks in plaster, and how should they be repaired?

Common causes include normal drying shrinkage, movement between different materials, failed plasterboard joints, loose backgrounds, vibration, temperature changes and building movement. Fine hairline cracks are common, but recurring, widening or diagonal cracks deserve closer investigation.

A lasting repair means dealing with the cause. The crack may need opening, securing, scrim taping, filling and skimming. Loose lath-and-plaster areas may require mechanical repair or replacement. Cracks caused by structural movement should be assessed by an appropriate building professional before cosmetic plastering.

Simply covering a crack with finishing plaster is rarely enough: if the background continues to move, the crack is likely to return.

13. How long does plastering work take?

A small repair may be completed in part of a day. A typical room can take one or two days depending on the number of surfaces and the preparation required. Larger rooms, full houses, high ceilings, staircases, dry lining and heavily damaged backgrounds take longer.

The working time is not the same as the drying time. A room may be completed in a day but still need several days before it can be decorated. Conditions, ventilation, plaster thickness and the underlying surface all affect drying.

Cooper Plastering provides a realistic expected timescale with the quotation and will explain if unexpected defects are discovered once loose material is removed.

14. Why is my plaster bubbling or peeling?

Bubbling or peeling may be caused by damp, trapped moisture, contaminated surfaces, wallpaper paste, unsuitable paint, poor preparation or loss of adhesion between layers. In older walls, salts can also disrupt the surface. If the plaster sounds hollow, it may have separated from the background—a failure commonly described as blown plaster.

Do not skim straight over an active problem. The source of moisture must be stopped, the wall allowed to dry, and unstable or contaminated material removed or properly treated. The correct repair depends on whether the cause is a plumbing leak, penetrating damp, condensation, residual adhesive or a failed background.

Painting over bubbling plaster usually disguises the problem only temporarily.

15. How much does it cost to plaster 1,000 square feet?

One thousand square feet is approximately 93 square metres. At a very broad skimming guide of £30 per square metre, the arithmetic would be around £2,790. However, this should not be treated as a quotation.

The actual cost may be lower or substantially higher depending on whether the measurement includes walls, ceilings, openings and awkward areas; whether the surfaces are ready to skim; and whether bonding, beads, boarding, crack repairs or removal are needed. Several small rooms also require more preparation and detailed work than one open 93m² area.

For accurate budgeting, arrange a site visit and obtain a written scope of work.

16. What is the best type of plaster for my home?

The right product depends on the background and the building. Gypsum finishing plaster such as MultiFinish is widely used for internal skimming over suitable plaster or plasterboard. Bonding products can build out and repair some backgrounds before finishing. Drywall adhesive and plasterboard may be used where walls need dry lining.

Older solid-walled properties sometimes need a breathable system rather than dense modern gypsum. Lime-based products can help moisture move through appropriate traditional construction, but the entire wall build-up and decoration must be considered. Damp areas may require the source of moisture to be corrected and a specialist specification.

There is no single “best” plaster. The best system is compatible with the building, background and problem being solved.

17. Is plaster repair covered by home insurance?

It depends on the cause and the wording of your policy. Sudden insured events—such as an escape of water from a pipe—may cover resulting ceiling or wall damage, subject to the insurer’s terms and excess. Gradual deterioration, condensation, poor maintenance, longstanding leaks or defective workmanship are often excluded.

Contact your insurer before authorising major work if you intend to claim. Photograph the damage, retain relevant reports and invoices, and ask whether the insurer requires its own inspection or contractor. Emergency work may still be necessary to make an area safe or stop further damage.

Cooper Plastering undertakes water-damaged ceiling and wall repairs and can provide a clear written quotation, but policy cover is ultimately decided by the insurer.

18. How do I know whether my plaster needs repairing?

Look for cracks that are growing or returning, bulges, sagging ceilings, crumbling areas, soft patches, staining, bubbling paint and plaster that sounds hollow when lightly tapped. Damage around windows, doorways, chimney breasts and old repair lines is also common.

A fine stable crack may only need local preparation and filling. Widespread hollow areas, repeated cracking or visible movement suggest a deeper problem. Brown staining or dampness must be investigated before replastering, because new plaster will not cure an active leak.

If material is loose overhead, keep people away from the area and arrange an urgent inspection.

19. Can old plaster be repaired, or must it be replaced?

Old plaster does not automatically need removing. Sound traditional plaster is part of the character of a property and can often be repaired. Local loose areas may be cut back, patched and blended, while stable but uneven walls may be suitable for careful preparation and re-skimming.

Replacement becomes more sensible when large areas have detached, the keys behind lath-and-plaster have failed, the surface is severely contaminated, or repeated patching would leave an unreliable background. Damp and incompatible materials must be addressed first.

At Cooper Plastering we assess what can realistically be retained. Removing everything when a local repair will work adds unnecessary mess and cost; skimming over a failing wall is false economy.

20. What should be included in a plastering quotation?

A useful written quotation should identify the customer and property, describe the rooms and surfaces, and explain what preparation and finishing are included. It should state whether the price includes labour, materials, protection and waste removal, together with the total cost and any important exclusions.

The quotation may list PVA or another bonding agent, scrim tape, bonding plaster, finishing plaster, plasterboard, beads and protection without itemising the cost of every bag. It should also identify assumptions—for example, that the visible background is secure—or explain how hidden defects will be handled.

Never compare totals alone when two quotations include different levels of preparation.

21. Should I get several plastering quotations?

Obtaining two or three quotations can help, particularly for a large project, but make sure every plasterer is pricing the same work. One may include removing loose plaster, repairing cracks, replacing beads and protecting floors while another has allowed only for a quick skim.

Provide the same information to everyone and ask for the work in writing. Compare experience, reviews, communication, availability and the proposed repair—not just the final number. An unusually low price can mean omitted preparation, rushed work or later extras.

For small jobs, a trusted local plasterer with strong recommendations may offer better value than spending weeks collecting multiple estimates.

22. Why does traditional plastering cost more than plasterboarding?

The comparison is not always like for like. Fixing plasterboard can create a surface quickly, but joints still need taping and filling or the boards may be fully skimmed. Traditional wet plaster systems require skilled application, multiple stages and drying time, particularly on uneven or period walls.

Costs depend on access, insulation requirements, the condition of the wall and the finish specified. Dry lining can be fast and useful, but it reduces room dimensions slightly and details around sockets, windows, skirtings and radiators must be managed. Traditional repair may retain more original fabric and suit some older properties better.

The correct decision should be based on the building and desired result, not material price alone.

23. Can I paint over damaged plaster?

Paint cannot repair loose, cracked, damp or crumbling plaster. It may temporarily hide staining or fine cracks, but the defect is likely to reappear and the paint may peel.

Before decorating, repair the cause, remove loose material and allow damp or newly plastered areas to dry fully. Minor stable imperfections can then be filled and sanded. Fresh plaster should receive an appropriate mist coat using the paint manufacturer’s recommended dilution—not thick undiluted vinyl paint.

If the wall feels cold or damp, shows brown staining, sounds hollow or has recurring cracks, arrange an assessment before spending money on decoration.

24. How do you repair water-damaged plaster walls and ceilings?

First stop the leak. Whether the water came from a roof, bathroom, heating pipe or appliance, the plaster should not be repaired until the source is fixed and the area is sufficiently dry.

The damaged surface is then assessed. Light staining on firm plaster may only need drying and suitable stain-blocking treatment before decoration. Soft, swollen, sagging, crumbling or contaminated plasterboard should be cut out and replaced. Loose plaster must be removed back to a sound edge, the background repaired, and the area boarded or bonded before skimming.

Water-damaged ceilings can be unsafe. If a ceiling is bulging or holding water, stay clear and seek urgent professional help rather than puncturing it while standing beneath it.

25. What should I do if plaster is falling off?

Keep people, children and pets away from the affected area, especially if it is a ceiling. Do not continue pulling material down unless you understand the construction, have isolated nearby electrical risks and can work safely. Falling plaster can be heavy and old ceilings may release a much larger area without warning.

Photograph the damage, check for an active leak and contact a professional. If the property was built or refurbished before 2000, potential asbestos-containing materials must also be considered before disturbing textured coatings, boards or unknown products.

The repair may range from securing and patching a small area to removing an unsafe section, replacing plasterboard and blending the new skim into the surrounding ceiling.

26. How does the cost of wet plaster compare with plasterboard installation?

Plasterboard itself can be economical, but the installed cost includes boards, fixings or adhesive, cutting, lifting, joint treatment, detailing and usually a skim or taped finish. Existing material may also need to be removed and disposed of.

Wet plaster repairs can be economical when the background is mainly sound and only local making-good is required. Conversely, severely uneven or failed walls may be quicker and more reliable to dry line. Ceilings are sometimes overboarded to create a secure new background, although loading, levels, services and fixings must be checked.

A site-specific quotation is the only useful comparison because both methods can be cheap or expensive in the wrong circumstances.

27. Do plasterers need a licence in the UK?

There is no general UK government plasterer’s licence equivalent to the trade licensing used in some other countries. That makes your own checks important. Ask about experience, relevant training, public liability insurance, recent work and independent reviews.

Some related tasks require other competent trades. Electrical fittings should be dealt with safely, gas appliances and flues require appropriately registered engineers, and structural concerns may require a surveyor or structural engineer. Asbestos work is also regulated, with some tasks requiring licensed contractors.

Cooper Plastering is a local sole-trader business with verified trade profiles, public liability insurance and a substantial portfolio of completed work across Warwickshire.

28. What is the best way to remove old wallpaper from plaster?

Work patiently. Score only where appropriate, use warm water or a wallpaper-removal solution, allow it time to soak and scrape with a broad blade held at a shallow angle. A steamer can help with stubborn paper but excessive heat and moisture may damage weak plaster—particularly old or previously repaired surfaces.

Test a small area first. Avoid gouging the wall, saturating sockets or repeatedly soaking plasterboard. After removal, wash off adhesive residue and allow the wall to dry before deciding whether it needs filling or skimming.

Wallpaper can conceal cracks, loose plaster and old repairs. If areas come away with the paper or sound hollow, stop and arrange an inspection rather than trying to seal everything beneath PVA and plaster.

29. How do I check for asbestos before plaster repair?

You cannot identify asbestos reliably by looking at it. Plaster itself is not normally the main concern, but older textured coatings, insulating board, cement products, sprayed coatings and some other materials may contain asbestos. The risk is particularly relevant in properties built or refurbished before 2000.

Before drilling, sanding, scraping or removing a suspect material, stop work and arrange sampling by a competent asbestos surveyor or testing service using a UKAS-accredited laboratory. Do not take a sample yourself unless you have received appropriate professional advice and understand the precautions.

The Health and Safety Executive provides current asbestos guidance. If asbestos is confirmed, the required method and contractor will depend on the material, condition and work involved.

30. Why hire a professional plasterer instead of doing it yourself?

Good plastering looks simple because an experienced plasterer makes it look controlled. In reality, the background must be assessed and prepared correctly, suction managed, materials mixed consistently and each coat applied and finished within a limited working time.

Professional work should deliver flatter walls, cleaner edges and a finish that decorates well. It also reduces the risk of poor adhesion, visible trowel marks, excessive polishing and cracks caused by incorrect preparation. A professional brings specialist tools, protection and the ability to deal with unexpected backgrounds.

DIY can be satisfying for small repairs, but repeatedly buying materials and sanding a poor full-wall skim often costs more than having the work done properly once.

31. What plastering tools do I need for small repairs?

For a minor filling repair you may need a dust sheet, scraper, filling knife, mixing container, clean water, brush, suitable filler or patching compound, sanding block, dust mask and eye protection. A deeper plaster repair may require scrim tape, a small trowel, hawk, bonding product and finishing material.

Use clean tools because dried fragments can drag through the finish. Choose materials compatible with the depth and background, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and never mix more than you can apply within the working time.

If the repair involves a ceiling, extensive loose plaster, electrics, damp or a potentially asbestos-containing surface, tools alone do not make it a safe DIY job.

32. How long does plaster take to dry or cure?

Fresh finishing plaster commonly takes around five to seven days to dry sufficiently for decoration, but it can take longer in cold, damp or poorly ventilated conditions and where repairs are thick. The colour normally changes from dark brown or pink to an even pale pink as it dries.

Gentle ventilation and normal background heat are better than blasting the wall with intense heat. Rapid forced drying can contribute to cracking and uneven drying. Do not paint while dark patches remain.

Thick backing coats, lime systems and damp masonry may need considerably longer. Always follow the product specification and the plasterer’s advice for the actual wall build-up.

33. Can plaster be applied over existing plasterboard or drywall?

Yes. In the UK, plasterboard is commonly skimmed with finishing plaster to produce a seamless surface. The boards must be correctly fitted, with the proper face outward, securely fixed, appropriately staggered where required and free from excessive damage or contamination. Joints and vulnerable cracks are reinforced with scrim tape, and external corners normally receive beads.

Previously painted plasterboard may also be re-skimmed if it is firm and suitably prepared, but gloss, dust, adhesive residue and low- or high-suction surfaces require the correct bonding treatment.

Skimming cannot compensate for loose boards, inadequate fixings or boards fitted incorrectly. Those issues should be corrected or clearly discussed before work begins.

34. What is the most common plaster problem in older homes?

Older Warwickshire homes frequently have a combination of cracking, hollow areas, previous patch repairs and moisture-related deterioration. Lath-and-plaster ceilings can lose their keys and begin to sag. Solid external walls may suffer where leaks, raised ground levels or non-breathable modern coatings trap moisture.

There is rarely one universal problem. The biggest mistake is treating every old wall like modern plasterboard and covering it without understanding how it was built. A compatible repair may involve retaining sound lime plaster, using breathable materials, locally repairing laths or carefully replacing only failed areas.

Older does not necessarily mean defective; many traditional walls remain sound when repaired with appropriate materials.

35. How much does skim coating cost?

In the UK we normally call it skimming or re-skimming. Current Cooper Plastering guide prices for re-plastering sound existing walls are approximately £400–£600 for a small room, £500–£700 for a medium room and from £700 for a large room. Individual walls and ceilings are priced according to size and condition.

The price increases when wallpaper adhesive must be removed, cracks repaired, loose material cut back, beads replaced, bonding applied or access equipment used. Skimming is the thin finishing stage; it should not be used to conceal an unstable background.

Send photographs and dimensions for initial guidance, followed by a site visit where necessary for a firm written quotation.

36. Should I call a plasterer or a dry-lining contractor?

For a domestic repair, skim, cracked wall, Artex ceiling, damaged ceiling or ordinary plasterboard installation, an experienced plasterer who also undertakes dry lining is usually the right first call. Larger commercial projects involving metal stud systems, suspended ceilings, acoustic systems and extensive board packages may require a specialist dry-lining contractor and larger team.

Cooper Plastering handles internal plastering and domestic dry lining, including plasterboard installation, bonding, skimming, patch repairs, ceiling repairs, Artex covering and renovation work. We also work with a small reliable team when a larger project requires it.

Describe the property, area and intended finish when enquiring so the correct approach can be recommended.

37. How much does it cost to plaster a ceiling?

Cooper Plastering’s current guide prices are approximately £350–£400 for a small ceiling, £400–£500 for a medium ceiling and from £500 for a large ceiling. These are general indications, not fixed quotations.

Price depends on size, height, access, condition, ceiling features and whether the work is a straightforward skim. Cracks, loose lath-and-plaster, water damage, Artex, failed plasterboard or a ceiling requiring overboarding will add preparation, labour and materials.

Ceiling work is physically demanding and must not be rushed. A clear quotation should distinguish between skimming an existing sound ceiling, repairing a local area, and boarding or replacing the ceiling before plastering.

38. How do I maintain plaster walls and prevent damage?

Keep the property ventilated, deal with leaks promptly and avoid allowing condensation to persist. Use suitable fixings for shelves and heavy items, locating studs or using the correct masonry or plasterboard fixing rather than relying on the surface plaster. Prevent doors and furniture from repeatedly striking walls and corners.

Decorate new plaster only when dry and use an appropriate first coat. Do not cover damp stains or recurring cracks without investigating them. Small stable defects are easier and cheaper to repair before they spread.

In period properties, use compatible breathable finishes where the wall construction requires them. Dense paints or unsuitable coatings can interfere with moisture movement and contribute to deterioration.

39. Is plaster more durable than plasterboard?

They perform different jobs, so durability depends on the complete wall system. Solid traditional plaster over masonry can be very hard and may last for generations. Plasterboard is quicker and lighter to install and, once properly fixed and skimmed, gives an excellent modern finish. Standard plasterboard can be more vulnerable to impact or prolonged water exposure, although different board types are available for specific uses.

A skim coat improves the seamless appearance of plasterboard but does not turn a hollow stud wall into solid masonry. Conversely, old solid plaster that has lost adhesion is not durable merely because it is thicker.

Correct specification, fixing, preparation and moisture control matter more than the material name alone.

40. What warning signs mean I need professional plaster repair?

Arrange an inspection if you notice:

• a ceiling that is sagging, bulging or shedding material;
• widespread hollow-sounding plaster;
• cracks that widen, return quickly or run diagonally from openings;
• soft, crumbling or damp patches;
• water stains that continue to grow;
• bubbling, peeling or salt deposits;
• movement around plasterboard joints;
• repeated repairs that keep failing;
• suspected asbestos-containing materials.

Loose overhead plaster and active water damage require prompt attention. Structural-looking cracks, significant movement or persistent damp may also need assessment by another appropriate specialist before plastering begins. A good plasterer will tell you when the cause sits outside plastering rather than simply covering the evidence.

Need a Reliable Plasterer in Stratford-upon-Avon or Warwickshire?

Cooper Plastering provides professional plastering, skimming, plasterboard installation, dry lining, ceiling repairs, patch repairs, bonding work, Artex covering, water-damage repairs and full-room renovation plastering.

I take pride in being honest, tidy and reliable. Floors and surrounding areas are protected, customers are kept informed and every job is completed to a standard I would be happy with in my own home. Free, no-obligation quotations are available throughout Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick, Leamington Spa, Kenilworth, Wellesbourne, Alcester, Bidford-on-Avon and nearby areas.

Contact Cooper Plastering

Andrew Cooper – Cooper Plastering
Mobile: 07754 917258
Telephone: 01789 731291
Email: info@cooperplastering.co.uk
Website: www.cooperplastering.co.uk
Address: Unit 5, Blackhill Industrial Estate, Blackhill Farm, Warwick Road, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire, CV37 0PT

Opening hours:
Monday–Friday: 8am–8pm
Saturday: 9am–5pm
Sunday: 10am–4pm

Call, email or send photographs of the work for initial advice and to arrange your free quotation.